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Hair Haircare. Shelby Samaria , a New York City-based hairstylist, adds that silicones can give your hair an instant shiny, luxurious feel. There are three types of silicones used in hair products — water-soluble, non-soluble, and evaporating sometimes referred to as volatile — and they're all added for a similar purpose.
As for what makes them different, simply put, water-soluble silicones are easily removed from hair with water, non-soluble silicones cannot be removed or penetrated with water, and evaporating silicones you guessed it evaporate from the hair 10 minutes to two hours after application.
Silicones go by many names on a product ingredient list. Examples of water-soluble silicones are stearoxy dimethicone, dimethicone copolyol, dimethicone PEG-8 phosphate, and PEG-7 amodimethicone. Common non-soluble silicones include dimethicone, dimethiconol, stearyl dimethicone, cetyl dimethicone, cetearyl dimethicone, amodimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, and behenoxy dimethicone.
Evaporating silicones are easier to spot because there are just three common names: cyclomethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, and cyclomethicone. Water-soluble, non-soluble, and evaporating silicones are added to hair care products for the way they create a thin, waterproof coating around your hair cuticle that keeps environmental aggressors like humidity out.
Evaporating silicones are slightly different from the other two, and are added to formulas to help spread the product through the hair and then quickly evaporate, explains cosmetic chemist Genesis Velazquez. The fact that they don't need to be washed out could be the reason they're often left out of the silicone conversation altogether. Velazquez adds that the silicones specifically used in hair-care products also enhance slip for detangling and add shine by creating a neat surface on the individual strands.
Beyond silicone's frizz-busting capabilities, Velazquez explains that silicones also help to give products like conditioner a smoother and more luxurious feel. Thomas adds that it's a relatively cheap ingredient that delivers results without making the formulation super costly. There's one piece of good news all our experts agree on: The silicones added to hair products are completely safe to use.
When trying to understand why silicones have such a bad rep, it's helpful to understand how they work in the first place.
They act almost like waterproofing agents. Over time, hair not only appears dull, but it gets dehydrated and weak from lack of moisture. This could harm all of your hard work to try to keep your hair hydrated and full of shine. At first, silicones may seem helpful in supporting shine or helping to style hair, but using the wrong kind of silicone can have unwanted long term effects. Not necessarily. Not all silicones are the same. Notice how we said certain types of silicones can cause this moisture-blocking buildup.
Some silicones may act entirely differently than others. There are plenty of silicones that are known to leave a residue. On the other hand, there are silicones that are water-soluble, which means they wash away clean.
Prose chemists have worked to formulate our silicone-based products with PEG-7 dimethicone, a water-soluble version. Since these silicones are water-soluble, they are much lighter and have fewer effects on your hair. Because PEG-7 dimethicone is water-soluble, it is considered a lightweight silicone that promotes shine and manageability. You get all of the benefits of silicones less heavy, more lightweight product, more moisture to your hair , minus the drawbacks buildup, dehydrated hair.
You can still find shine and moisture without silicones. Prose offers a few plant-based, silicone-free alternatives. We refer to them as vegetable oils—not to be confused with the kind you use to bake! In our silicone-free hair care products, we use capryloyl glycerin and sebacic acid copolymer.
Capryloyl glycerin and sebacic acid copolymer can help with softness in your hair. Despite the chemical-y sounding names, both come from natural sources: coconut and castor oils. Another one is diheptyl succinate, which is derived from sugars and castor oil. Diheptyl succinate can enhance the shine and texture of hair. Another ingredient that can be found in our shampoo is hydrogenated palm glycerides citrate, which can support hydration in your hair.
Some other ingredients that we feature are tomato oil and sweet almond oil, which are also natural and can support hydration in your hair. So, for example, using a water-soluble silicone as a final ingredient in your hair care routine such as during heat styling or in a finishing spray or mist isn't a bad idea at all. But before a conditioner or another styling product like a curl cream? Not so much. And while it's certainly a problem when silicone acts as a shield against all the moisturizing and nutrient-rich goodness your hair would otherwise be absorbing like a sponge, a bigger problem with silicone is the potential for buildup.
Silicone can build up on your hair over time since it's difficult to rinse off — and then any product you use on top of those silicones will just sit there and accumulate as well since it's can't penetrate the hair.
This is only a problem with those non-water soluble silicones, so whenever possible, look for water-soluble silicones that won't leave you with buildup.
If you've weighed the pros and cons of using silicone-based hair products and decided they're not for you, there are alternatives. Additionally, hydrolyzed wheat protein is an ingredient whose molecules are small enough to penetrate the hair shaft and then stay there, filling in the gaps in the hair shaft and cuticle, thus improving the slip and creating the smoothing effect associated with silicones, says Sagen. Other ingredients that function as emollients include vegetable-derived oils such as olive, sunflower, and avocado, according to Lane, whose list of silicone alternatives also includes coco-caprylate an ingredient naturally derived from coconut oil , capryloyl glycerin, and hydrogenated ethylhexyl olivate.
While experts recommend steering clear of silicones in shampoos and conditioners, they can be useful as a final styling product and are definitely not a bad idea to use as a heat protectant when straightening, curling, or blow-drying hair.
But "in most cases, curly folks want to stay away clear of all silicones, though some will follow a modified approach and use water-soluble silicones that rinse easily from the hair," says Brown.
Since curls are structurally fragile, the buildup can cause breakage as well as curl pattern disruption and extra frizz. It can also make curls appear dry and lifeless. Interestingly, silicone is found in a lot of products made specifically for curly hair because curls are prone to all the things silicones are designed to combat: coarseness and tangling. Read on for a few favorite hair products that feature silicones — water-soluble, of course — as well as some silicone-free favorites.
This restorative oil can be used daily on wet or dry hair, but it really shines no pun intended, but it does make hair super lustrous according to customer reviews as a heat protectant. Instead of using silicones, this hair oil — which smells better than any other oil I have ever put on my hair — instead seals in moisture and adds shine thanks to safflower and argan oils.
It absorbs effortlessly into curls and doesn't create a greasy film or residue.
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